The solvent dehydration can be done with a water-miscible solvent, Ethanol, Methanol, Isopropanol, Methylated Spirits, Pure Alcohol, and Acetone.
My favorite is Acetone as long as the acetone bath is placed outdoors or in a well ventilated area.
2) Sealants for Iron Conservation & Preservation Once the iron artifact has been taken out of the acetone bath, and acetone has evaporated, contact with air should be minimized before the artifact's surface is given the final sealant or insulating coating.
You may want to cover the artifact with two to three thin coats of tannic acid - the active ingredient in products like rust converters, which halts and prevents any further rusting.
The tannic acid dries pretty quick, but you should let the final coat dry overnight if you are going to paint the artifact afterwards.
Submersing your iron artifact for 30 seconds will be enough to complete the dehydration project.
Solvents can be dangerous if inhaled or handled, so the solvent dehydrating procedure should be conducted outside, with adequate protection, and according to the instructions given for any specific solvent used.Rust converters are not designed to remove the rust but to convert unstable corrosion into a stable, protective layer with the help of a latex-based coating.